Wednesday 9 September 2015

Chapter 8 - Atherton Tablelands

Day 45 – Wednesday 2 September 2015

The day started slowly as we were in no rush. So we packed up the caravan, picked up Fay and headed towards Cairns looking for a good coffee and a vanilla slice (my idea). The latter eluded us, but the former was found at a place called the Trinity Beach Bar and Grill. It was a magic spot in a great location.

We dropped Fay at Cairns airport and headed south then south west, into the Atherton tablelands. The middle part of the trip was about 30 km of a climbing twisting road that varied between 30 km and 50 km. The views were superb but I could not afford to look. At the start of the drive the car indicated 30 degrees. By the time we reached the tablelands the car suggested 24 degrees was the current situation.

We set up camp at the Malanda Falls Caravan Park, a mere 100 metres from the Malanda Falls.

Malanda Camp Site


We were now in the middle of one of the two places in the world where tree kangaroos are found in the wild – the other being New Guinea. It is also a good place for platypus.


Malanda Falls

 



Malanda Mosaic

It is also the traditional lands of the Ngadjon-jii people who were “hunters and gatherers”. Although traditionally small people they had a special skill of climbing tress to gather such treasures as pythons and tree kangaroos. Malanda is also known for its mosaic wall plaques that adorn many buildings in the town.

After some research and wood collection (via an opening of the wallet) we lit a fire and cooked a stew for dinner. My little gas-bottle BBQ has now been used two nights in a row.

When the meal was finished I put another log (or two) on the fire and we listened to the “symphony of natural noises”. The base or constant was the sound of water crashing over the falls. This was supported by the varying intensity of the many different insects, some nearly drowning out the water falls. The regular chorus was provided by (at least) six kookaburras.

When the orchestra went home we went to bed and listed to the waterfalls.

 

Day 46 – Thursday 3 September 2015

I had my 7am walk via two rain forest tracks, one either side of the main road to Atherton. My first photo shoot was a collection of turtles, who seemed keen to work out who I was – or else they were keen on getting their photo taken. Platypus and tree kangaroo were not on offer.


Shirley had decided that it was waterfall day so off we set. We stopped at five falls, two of them having two sets of falls. A couple of the walks were not good for Shirley’s ankles, so we called it a day after five.



Millaa Millaa Falls




Zillie Falls

We also saw some other items of interest near the waterfalls.




A Flower, a Fungi and a Small Member of the Lizard Family

We had found time, in between waterfalls, to visit the “Mungalli Creek Bio-dynamic Dairy” that sold superb cheese and a passionfruit cheesecake to die for. The coffee was OK as well. After the walking we reckon that we deserved the cheesecake.

After the last waterfall we stopped in a little place called Millaa Millaa – because they have a place that has excellent pies. It just happened to be lunch time and they had a nice park for us to rest our legs – and enjoy a pie.  They also happened to have a display of some 870 year old timber - a Giant Kauri Pine.  Its trunk had an average girth of 10 metres.


Giant Kauri Pine - 870 Years Old

On the way home we stopped at a place called “Tinzali Lakes” to see platypus in the wild. We were lucky enough to see two or three, and get some photos.



A Platypus in A Lily Pond

We had enjoyed our day driving though some lovely lush country on roads that have many twists and turns – some not good for caravans.

We had left-overs for dinner.


Day 47 – Friday 4 September 2015

Shirley changed strategies today and we had mostly a historical day.  Our first stop was the Herberton Historical Village, a similar place to other such villages around Australia (such as Swan Hill and Ballarat).  The Herberton Village has about 60 different buildings (mostly original) that display many artefacts relevant to that theme.  For example "Day's Garage" has many period cars and motor bikes, a number of them in pristine condition.  Shirley and I both agreed that it is the best "village" of its kind that we have ever seen - anywhere. "Elderslie House" - which belonged to the founder of Herberton - had bedrooms, dining and lounge areas with not a spec of dust.  Shirley knows as she checked.  It was amazing.

I did get a huge chuckle out of the following sign in the town pub, the "Tin Pannikin".


The state school also presented a few "period" school "sums" that brought a smile.  A couple of these appear below.

All implements with a motor - car, bike, tractor, steam - are started on a regular basis, some every day.



State School Question No 1



Two more State School Questions



Above & Below: Example of the Quality Restoration & Care of Exhibits




We moved from the village to the mining museum, which highlights the history of the town in relation to tin mining. On our way home we called into the Gallo diary which specialises in cheese and chocolate. No need to go further here  - we were hooked.

We lit  fire in our gas-bottle-BBQ and cooked some roast veges to go with our left-over roast beef.  It was pretty good.

It is a good place to relate two bird stories concerning Shirley.

Story 1: While relaxing beside the fire last night Shirley was not happy with two bush turkeys having a "real estate" issue about one metre from her chair.  They can jump over a metre into the air, whilst trying to claw each other.  The winner ended up with a limp. Shirley was not impressed.

Story 2: We were blessed with having 5 or 6 kookaburras around us for most of our time at Malanda.  On one occasion one kooka liked something just behind Shirley's chair (close to the bush turkey incident).  On his way "to site" he missed Shirley's head by the length of a feather.  On his way back to base he took the same route.  Shirley was unamused.

I got a chuckle out of both incidents.

Day 48 – Saturday 5 September 2015

It was our coldest night since we got to Queensland some four weeks ago, and was great for sleeping.

Our third full day was fully planned by Shirley and we soon set off on a busy schedule.

Our first stop was Lake Eacham, which is one of six volcanic crater lakes in the district.  It was a lovely spot for a picnic or a swim. We did neither.



Lake Eacham

W then drifted into Yungaburra and visited the (fairly) new Afghanistan Avenue of Honour - a tribute to our soldiers in the recent Afghanistan conflict.  It is an excellent tribute and should be visited if you are in the area.



Curtain Fig Tree

Of course we could not visit the area and miss the Curtain Fig tree so we used the board walk to visit the majestic (and very old) tree.  It is truly amazing, and not the only one of its kind in the area.

A walk around Yungaburra was next, admiring the local arts and fantastic wood work. Coffee also got on the agenda.

The Peterson Creek Walking Track is a popular attraction, so we strolled for one km or so and saw two platypus.  It was worth another platypus photo.


We had a light lunch at the Lake Tea House, which was built in 1927 and has been in the same family since then. Lake Barrine is another volcanic crater lakes.  The actual reason for our visit was a 45 minute cruise around the lake.  Yes, it was suggested by Shirley - a sail on water.  Our guide pointed out many plants, birds and water animals to us.  However we did not get to see a local 8 metre python.




Twin Bull Kauri Pines (about 45 metres) & Long Fin Eel (about 900 mm)

We cooked sausages and veges on the gas bottle BBQ and sat around the fire enjoying the ambience.

Day 49 – Sunday 6 September 2015

Shirley cooked me bacon and eggs for Father's Day breakfast - a great start to the day.  We slowly packed up and moved north to Tolga where we stopped for a market with lots of farm produce.  We both spent some money.

Camp was established soon after near Lake Tinaroo - about 15 km north of Atherton.  Two tiny red-browed finches (Firetails) entertained us as they searched for lunch.





Lake Tinaroo Barra

After a relaxing period we went for a 4 km walk along the banks of the lake, which is man made with a 45 metre high bank and about 75% the size of Sydney Harbour.  The lake holds barramundi and some are apparently pretty big.  I did witness one example, about 60-70 cm long - not caught be me.

It was time for more "Father's Day" relaxing, so I/we did.

Shirley cooked a lovely piece of steak for dinner.  It was nearing the end of day 49 and our TV is yet to be turned on.  We have not seen a TV news bulletin, or detective show, since July 19.

Day 50 – Monday 7 September 2015

I went for a good early morning walk but the sunrise was hidden by storm clouds, that petered away after the sun was high in the sky.

We went for a 2 hour drive that circumvented Lake Tinaroo and checked out the many camping and sightseeing points along the way.  Unfortunately the dirt road is unsuitable for caravans.



Top left - Some flowers on a tree.
 


Bottom right - Mobo Creek Crater. 


Others - Cathedral Fig Tree

After lunch we visited a gallery that sells magnificent wood products, as well as wood off-cuts.  I had to leave my wallet in the car.  Then we visited the Mt Uncle Distillery which produces gin, rum, vodka and whiskey. I could not afford the $150 for the whiskey but the $4 nip was enough to prove that it is very nice. The producer is a local young guy who branched out from the family business of growing bananas, even though the distillery is in the middle of the family banana plantation.

Spaghetti bolognaise for dinner topped a good day.

Day 51 – Tuesday 8 September 2015

We broke camp and headed into Atherton about 9:45 am - very late for us.  However it was only a 20 minute drive.  We had a lazy day in Atherton and late afternoon saw us head out to a free camp about 12 km north of town.



How Wang Temple


Day 52 – Wednesday 9 September 2015

We had another lazy start and drifted back into Atherton to do some shopping and get to the How Wang Temple by late morning.  The timber and tin/iron temple is a departure from the normal and is the only one of its kind left in Australia.  Apparently there are few left in China, courtesy of the cultural revolution.

We did a tour with (who you would call) an Aussie character who knew the history and used traditional Aussie vernacular to get the story across. 


He was very effective, and explained the components of the temple at length.  Due to the oppression of the Chinese it was left to the elements for some time and locals took advantage of the artefacts that existed in the temple.  Rather than try to emulate the lost artefacts they have left "blanks" to show where things are missing.  All items on view in the temple are authentic.



Note Shade on Corrugated Iron at Noon

 One thing I learned from the tour.  If you live in a hot climate and build a wall from corrugated iron, it should be installed horizontally so that (at any one time) around 50% of the surface is in shade in the middle of the day - reducing the heat that transfers through the wall.  Think about it.  Check out the photo.

It is also interesting to note that the Chinese cooked a whole pig in the vertical (non moving) position, rather than on a rotisserie, and have a special oven for doing so.

We left Atherton and arrived in Cairns around 2:45 to set up camp and have around 44 hours of peace before our grandsons arrive.  We are looking forward to it.


Day 53 – Thursday 10 September 2015

Today is a quiet day as we do some shopping (bits we forgot yesterday), some washing and some organising.  I have already had my 4 km walk and admired the colour, a leisurely breakfast and a great shower.


Shirley hung the washing out about 12 minutes before the rain started.  We are hoping it was a one-off shower.


As I wind up this chapter we have been on the road for 42 days (excluding the 10 day Cape York trip), averaging 119 km per day and spending an average of $33.20 per night on accommodation.  It has been a slow (and enjoyable) pace compared to previous years.

 

This post is complete (last update 9:30 am Thursday 10 September 2015)

 

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