Thursday 20 August
6-7-8 happened without fuss and we went for a walk along the road
towards the Port Stewart settlement until Andrew caught up with us. Our first
stop was the place when the Lama Lama people (traditional owners) were removed
by police in June 1961 and taken to Barmega at the top of the Cape. In
recent times these people have been moving back and trying to re-establish
their culture and traditions. Click here to learn more.
Helicopter tree leaf/seed
Flower from the Bombax plant
Andrew pointed out the Bombax plant that has a lovely red flower and has
bark that is very good for making canoes. He also pointed out the
helicopter tree, so named because of flight patters of its leaves/seeds.
Next stop was the camp ground being developed by the Lama Lama people, where
Andrew pointed out the mud that had therapeutic qualities, as well as the
mistletoe on the native passionfruit plant.
A couple of the group were not happy with the tracks on the dirt road
that were apparently either made by a python or a taipan. We kept moving.
Next stop was the (former) trading post of Port Stewart, although there
is not much there anymore.
Smoko was held at a large lagoon that was nearly covered in water
lillies.
The White Band across the middle of the
photo is masses of water lillies
Mail Plane
It was here that Andrew pointed out the Jesus Bird (Jacana) that appears
to walk on water.
We then crossed the lands of Lilyvale Station and watched the mail plane
land, drop off mail, and take off again. Kristy had about 8 gates to open
and close as we crossed the station. It was an excellent dirt road.
We stopped for lunch at Musgrave Station, the original repeater station
for the OTL. A road sign soon after indicated that we were 570 km from
the “Tip” and 450 km from Cairns.
Salt water creek was our next landmark as we headed further south and
veered 3 km off the road into Low Lake – a very pretty spot.
Low Lake
Nifold Plain was next on the route – a rather flat and barren part of
the world. This was a huge change from the many rainforests and treed
plains that we had experienced. This soon changed as we entered the
domain of many lagoons, virtually all of them covered with lillies.
Andrew assured us that the numerous lagoons that we saw were a small
percentage of those that exist in this area. Brolga and numerous water
birds were ready for the photographers.
In turn we crossed over Hahn Crossing, bypassed Red Lagoon and visited
White Lagoon, where a crocodile was basking in the sun. Now having our nightly
supply of wood we camped for the night at Kalpower Crossing. Andrew
pointed out a fossil in the rock and also a clumps of rocks that originated
from a coral reef millions of years ago.
Fossil
Dinner was BBQ steak cooked as requested, either rare, medium or well
done.
Dessert was creamed rice and fruit. 10pm bed time.
Friday 21 August
6-7-8 happened, although I had my breakfast sitting by the causeway just
200 metres away, waiting for a local sea eagle that never appeared. We
had a good walk them jumped on the bus and headed south towards Old Laura
Station – just 110 km north north west of Cooktown.
Old Laura Station
Kennedy Palm
We left the National Park and entered Battle Camp station, so named
because of an indigenous/settler conflict that resulted in indigenous
deaths. Normanby Station was next on our route. Andrew explained the
story of Normanby woman so named because of the while girl that the police
attempted to take from the traditional owners of the land. The action resulted
in the death of the girl and an autopsy showed that she was actually an indigenous
child. Sad. Smoko was held on the banks of Normanby river, where
Andrew pointed out the Kennedy Palm, which lives for about 35 years, flowers,
then dies.We crossed the Great Dividing Range and thin/bony cattle on arid land
became fat cattle on lush green pastures. The transformation in such a
short distance was amazing. Banana trees and cane fields started to
appear.
We took photos at Isabella Falls then moved on.
Isabella Falls
Then we crossed over the Endeavour River, so named because of a famous
ship that was moored in it some time ago.
Cooktown was our camp spot for the night, a town named after the guy who
captained the Endeavour. After setting up camp Andrew gave us the “Cooks
tour” (pardon the pun) of the town and set us free. Lunch was fresh
barramundi & chips following (over time) by coffee, more walking and a cold
beer.
Cooktown Hotel
Andrew picked us up and took us up Grassy Hill for a 360 degree
view of Cooktown and surrounds. The Botanic Gardens were visited before
we headed back to camp and happy hour.
View from top of Grassy Hill – Cooktown
My straw came out of the jar and I gave a thank you speech to Andrew
& Kristy. My mere words were not enough for the wonderful job that
they had done. Andrew, Kristy and OzTours all deserve the highest
compliment for a job well done. Thank you guys.
Kirsty provided roast chicken and salad for dinner on our last night
together.
Saturday 22 August
6-7-8 was modified to exclude the walk and get on the bus at 7:30.
This was accomplished without fuss.
The first notable milestone was crossing the Annan river, which
effectively denotes the southern line of Cape York. We had moved away
from Lama Lama land onto land traditionally owned by the Kuku Yalanji people. Black Mountain soon appeared and we stopped for a
photo opportunity. Black Mountain denotes the start of the wet tropics
which extends for 890,000 hectares down the coast.
Black Mountain
We passed the historical (some say hysterical) Lions Den Hotel and moved
south into Cedar Bay National Park. We ventured through the small township of
Ayton which is probably the nearest town to Endeavour Reef, where Lieutenant
James Cook reshaped his ship a little. Soon after a crocodile was sighted
on the bank of Bloomfield river enjoying the sun. We followed the
Bloomfield river for a while.
Soon after we entered Wugal Wugal community which has been alcohol free
since the Tony Fitzgerald inquiry initiated some changes – encouraged by the
female elders of the local people. We were allowed to carry alcohol
through the community as long as we stayed on a pre-designated road and did not
open any alcohol.
Andrew then pointed out the stretch of road between Wugal Wugal and
Cairns that caused so much angst in the mid 1980’s as the Queensland government
of the day decided to put a road through virgin Daintree
rainforest. We had traversed some hills so steep and rugged that Andrew
locked the hubs into 4WD.
The group was amused to see the bridge (and hear the story) over
Woobadda Creek that has a 70 degree turn in its middle, thanks to some redesign
during construction when the path through some rainforest was banned.
Bridge over Woobadda Creek
Emmagen Creek was next, then the northern side of Cape
Tribulation. We stopped at Kulki and took a photo of the yellow footed
scrub fowl and the eastern reef egret.
Yellow footed scrub fowl
The south side of Cape Tribulation beckoned where we strolled the extended
board walk, while Andrew gave commentary.
Daintree Board walk
Chris, Shirley, Kay, Fay & Darryl at
Cape Tribulation
Kristy provide a lovely salad for lunch prior to driving through the
Daintree rainforest.
The ice-cream shop was an obligatory stop where everyone on the bus had
some of the four flavours of ice cream, made from exotic tropical fruits.
We caught the Daintree ferry and drove through Mossman.
Ferry Over the Daintree River
An osprey in its nest posed for us as we got closer to home.
Osprey at Home
We arrived at our caravan park about 4pm. Eleven of us left the
group after lots of goodbyes. Kristy got 11 hugs and Andrew got a mixture
of hugs and handshakes.
We were home after a plane flight and 1677 km over eight days.
It was a wonderful trip thanks mainly
to Andrew and Kristy.
The following map gives a good approximation of our route.
OzTours Air/Land Route August 2015
(Land component only)
This post is complete (last update 10am Thursday 27 August 2015)
Go to
previous post (Cape York – Part 2) ….
Go to next
post (Cairns & Port Douglas) …
No comments:
Post a Comment